%26#8220;Look at the walls of our temple, they have all gone grimy with the smoke that pollutes our air,%26#8221; said a 40-year-old Buddhist peasant named Caidan. The big factory, said a man sitting next to him, benefits only members of the Han Chinese majority. %26#8220;Tibetans get the low-income and the hard-labor jobs,%26#8221; the man said. The Han, he said, %26#8220;are all paid as technicians, even though some of them really don%26#8217;t know anything.%26#8221; In Tibet and the neighboring provinces of Qinghai, Gansu and Sichuan, Tibetans live in closer proximity than ever with the Han, who have flooded in with a wave of state-driven investment. But they occupy separate worlds. Relations between the two groups are typically marked by stark disdain or distrust, by stereotyping and prejudice and, among Tibetans, by deep feelings of subjugation, repression and fear.After decades of heavily financed efforts on the part of China to strengthen its control over Tibet and to tame the country%26#8217;s far west through gigantic infrastructure projects and resettlement of Han Chinese from the east, the outbreak of protests and a fierce crackdown by Chinese security forces in and around Tibet have laid bare a harsh reality of policy failure. There is no legalized ethnic discrimination in China, but privilege and power are overwhelmingly the preserve of the Han, while Tibetans live largely confined to segregated urban ghettos and poor villages in their own ancestral lands. Chinese news programs on the events in Lhasa have reinforced an impression of separate universes that scarcely intersect %26#151; one Han and one Tibetan. The programs were clearly intended as propaganda to place the blame for riots on Tibetans and rally Han Chinese in support of a government-led suppression. Over and over, television broadcasts have repeated the same scenes of rampaging Tibetans smashing shop windows and of injured, hospitalized Han, while making no mention of the widely reported deaths among Tibetans during the police crackdown that followed, nor of the underlying grievances that sparked them.Since the last widespread unrest in Tibet two decades ago, Beijing has sought to undermine separatists in what it calls the Tibetan Autonomous Region. It has invested billions of dollars, encouraged an influx of Han Chinese and inserted itself deeply into the mechanics of Tibetan Buddhism to eliminate the influence of the Dalai Lama, Tibet%26#8217;s spiritual leader, who fled China for exile in India in 1959 after a failed uprising. But real assimilation, if it were ever the goal, remains elusive.Caidan, the peasant in Gabu Village, part of Qinghai Province, said there was only one way to solve the grievances of Tibetans under Chinese rule: allow the Dalai Lama to return. %26#8220;We are unhappy that the state suppresses us, and as long as the Dalai isn%26#8217;t allowed to return, we will remain unhappy,%26#8221; he said. %26#8220;Tibet is the Dalai%26#8217;s home.%26#8221;In the Tibetan capital, Lhasa, Han shopkeepers, hostel owners and others who are picking up the pieces of their lives after riots that destroyed many Chinese-owned business there spoke with scarcely concealed condescension, and often with outright hostility, of Tibetans whom they described as lazy and ungrateful for the economic development they have brought. %26#8220;Our government has wasted our money in helping those white-eyed wolves,%26#8221; Wang Zhongyong, a Han manager of handicraft shops, said in an interview in Lhasa. Mr. Wang%26#8217;s shops sell Tibetan-themed trinkets to tourists. One of his shops was smashed and burned in the riots. %26#8220;Just think of how much we%26#8217;ve invested in relief funds for monks and for unemployed Tibetans,%26#8221; he said. %26#8220;Is this what we deserve?%26#8221; Among Han in Lhasa, comments like these stood out for their mildness. %26#8220;The relationship between Han and Tibetan is irreconcilable,%26#8221; said Yuan Qinghai, a Lhasa taxi driver, in an interview. %26#8220;We don%26#8217;t have a good impression of them, as they are lazy and they hate us, for, as they say, taking away what belongs to them. In their mind showering once or twice in their life is sacred, but to Han it is filthy and unacceptable. %26#8220;We believe in working hard and making money to support one%26#8217;s family, but they might think we%26#8217;re greedy and have no faith.%26#8221; 1 2 Next Page %26#x00bb;Li Zhen and Fan Wenxin contributed reporting.
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